Sunday, 11 November 2018

Cruising Season 2018 Wrap-up

Basic stats:
Days on boat: 146
Distance covered: 760 nautical miles
Countries visited: France (Corsica), Italy (Elbe, Sardinia, Egadi Islands, Sicily)
Nights at anchor: 73
Average cost per night: 23 Euros
Motor hours: 100
Sailing vs Motoring: 50% (but most of the motoring was actually motor sailing with the motor purring along gently at 1500 rpms or less)

We are getting better at predicting what awaits us each year. The expectations for 2018 that were NOT true were:

1) Crowded and expensive ports in southern Corsica and northeast Sardinia: We simply avoided them. We only had one port in La Maddalena that was pricey, but given that it was in the center of town during June and there was a gale blowing, we felt it was worth it.

2) Using a line ashore to keep from swinging in narrow anchorages: All of the anchorages were large enough that you didn’t need a line ashore. I’m sure we won’t get away with this for much longer.

3) Transportation headaches: While the distance from our winter port to the nearest airport was greater than in previous years, the transportation system was direct and smooth between Licata and Catania. We left a couple of days early to visit Catania before flying home so we didn’t feel rushed.

Honestly, it didn't FEEL this crowded...

  • Dreamy anchorages everywhere from Elbe island to Sicily, with crystal clear turquoise waters averaging 29 C (84 F).
  • Great snorkelling.
  • Lots of time anchored out instead of in ports.
  • Fantastic weather (except for the stormy period at the end of August, as usual)
  • Cultural / historical visits: Elbe (Napoleon), La Maddalena (Garibaldi), Nuraghe settlements in Sardinia, Greek-Phoenician-Roman-Visigoth-Moor settlements near Cagliari, Cave paintings in Levanzo (Egadi Islands) from 12000 BCE, and Greek ruins at Selinunte and the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento in Sicily. We also enjoyed the big cities (Cagliari, Trapani, Palermo, Catania) and many of the smaller towns (particularly liked Marzara del Vallo in Sicily).
  • Italian food and wine, although I have to admit that by the end of the season I was ready for a break from pasta.
  • And as always, one of the biggest pleasures of cruising is meeting up with old friends and making new ones. We also particularly enjoyed the community atmosphere in Licata with so many live aboards wintering over here. I really hated leaving and may head back later this winter or early spring when I get too boat sick to be civil staying at home. (Patrick would say that time is now, but I still have things to do here first...).

  • Dragging at anchor and calling for a tow (in italian) 
  • Patrick’s cracked tooth in a tiny Sardinian town on the 15th of August (biggest vacation period of the year when no one works and everything shuts down)
  • A cascade of toilet problems at the end of the cruise.
  • Bad non-potable water (all over Sardinia and Sicily) and contaminated tanks.

Because of health problems, we got a late start on the sailing season and took it very easy this year. We sailed fewer miles than usual and enjoyed the pace, especially because it allowed us to spend many days enjoying beautiful anchorages with no urge to move on until the weather pushed us along. This season gave us a little bit of everything that you want out of Med sailing.

Thursday, 1 November 2018

Greek Ruins and Turkish Steps

Our last days in Sicily were filled with cultural visits, most notably, the valley of the temples in Agrigento and the so-called Turkish steps, a natural formation of blinding white limestone cliffs rising from a turquoise bay where the Moors supposedly anchored their ships, climbing the steps to raid nearby villages.

Back in Brittany, re-adjusting to house living is still in progress.  The kitchen organization continues to baffle me and it seems that many of our most useful gadgets are on the boat. I've had to get used to wearing shoes again after 5 months and wonder where all of my socks are hiding.  I still feel like I'm in someone else's home. I tiptoe around trying not to disturb things, my inner voice making snide remarks about the owner's slovenliness and lack of taste.  I finally got batteries put back in the barometer / weather station, whose vigilant watch on the weather situation around me comforts me for no good reason.  The nights are too quiet, too still, too long. 

It's been great catching up with friends and family, though, and I'm slowly getting back to running and biking on our beautiful coastal trails.  I have a lot of homework to do preparing next year's cruising and I look forward to diving in to that.

Atlas pilar

Goddess Heads

Egyptian god Bes, a protective deity of joy, dance, sleep, and womanly matters.

Tuesday, 23 October 2018

Winter Port, Licata

We left Mareda in Licata’s Cala del Sole marina yesterday, tied down (I think) for the winter. A few days before we left, a gale blew through the marina with 50 knot gusts and Mareda rode it out smoothly without touching either of the neighbouring boats or the dock, and without too much whining from the springs.

This is the first time we have left the boat in a marina that has a large winter live-aboard community and the atmosphere was friendly and festive. We were sad to leave (more so than usual) and I think I have convinced Patrick that, although Mareda seemed to be tied down well for the winter, we really should head back to check up on her in February.

The re-entry to home life has not been as bad as usual this year, since the Brittany drought mercifully stunted the grass and shrubs, making our hacking-through-the-jungle routine a bit easier. I still have ethical problems with weeding - racism in my opinion, punishing the evolutionary winners, etc. - but Patrick wasn’t buying my philosophical musings and told me to get back to work. I also have problems dislodging the spiders (some quite large and beautiful), since I happen to like spiders and, truth be told, they live here more than we do.

As ever, the mail was stuffed with flyers from real-estate agencies wanting to sell our abandoned house for us. We are still getting used to the house again, trying to remember where we put things and why (the kitchen baffles me for days). I was very happy to be reunited with my bike, unlimited internet, and flush toilets, and we are both thrilled to be eating french food again. We were very disappointed with the bread in Italy, so walking into our neighbourhood bakery this morning was a wonderful welcome home.

And before the dust settles, we are off to Paris at the end of the week and Bordeaux the following week to reintroduce ourselves to the kids. And I’m thrilled to be meeting up with Kiwi sailing friends Viki Moore and Andrew Herriott from Astrolabe Sailing who are passing through Paris at the same time.

Sunday, 14 October 2018

Sciacca and Selinunte

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Sciacca at the Lega Navale marina, just across the harbour from one of the largest fishing ports in Italy.  The town was picturesque (I got tired of photographing all the baroque churches) and is centrally located between two major archaeological sites, Selinunte and Agrigento.  Here are some sights from Sciacca and Selinunte. 

Tuesday, 2 October 2018

Marzara del Vallo

We thought Marzara would only be a brief halt, one of the few places along this coast of Sicily with a good anchorage to avoid an overpriced marina.  Thanks to our new favorite web site, Navily, we could see that there was plenty of anchor room with good holding, although the harbor behind the jetty is so large that you feel exposed.  We anchored in front of the Mazara cathedral, and our first sunset was accompanied by the muezzin from the mosque calling the faithful to evening prayer in a strange duet with Celine Dion blarring from the bar across the harbor.  We are closer to Tunisia than Rome here, and Mazara is a crossroads city with multiple Mediterranean influences.  We were so charmed by the town with its kasbah district, labyrinth of narrow streets, fish markets, and ruins that we stayed 3 nights. 

This is what happens when a cathedral is built on top of a mosque built on top of a greek temple, etc etc.

The Dancing Satyr, circa 400 b.c., hauled up in a fishing net off the coast.  

Dinner... if they would just stop staring so balefully...

Wednesday, 26 September 2018

Erice and Marsala

We had a fun sail from Trapani to Marsala with 16 knots winds on the beam and nearly 2 meter swells that announced the present gale blowing out over the islands.  We are in the Cantiere Nautico Polaris in Marsala, which is slightly more expensive than the neighboring marina but with excellent security, lots of space, and wireless internet good enough for videos from inside the boat !  Before leaving Trapani we finally made our way up to the medieval town of Erice to wander along the labyrinth of old stone streets in the pouring rain.  We are clearly winding down the season, with cooler temps, more humid weather, empty marinas, a slower pace, and more tourism. 

Trapani, salt flats, and Favignana island seen from Erice in the rain.

Theological library.

Florio winery, Marsala

Wednesday, 19 September 2018

Encore Egadi

We are now back in the port of Trapani waiting for a gale to pass after another week in the islands.  We are ahead of schedule and still have almost 3 weeks to make our way down to Licata for our winter contract, but we may end up dodging weather more than we had expected.  Meanwhile, more eye candy from the islands.

poor stitching on the pano but click for larger view...

colorful reef with reflections off water above