Friday, 10 August 2018

Sardinia's East Coast notes

As mentioned in the last post, our Imray guide ( 2016) misses large sections of the east coast of Sardinia, as if it were just a zone for transiting to somewhere else.   Thankfully, there is a brillant document on the sea-seek web site ( for East Sardinia that points out many wonderful anchorages.

Along with Cala Ginepro (our anchor coordinates: 40°26.491 09°47.522) and Cala Luna (40°.14.323 09°37.485) mentioned earlier, we have discovered the cala Santa Foxi Manna (sea-seek coordinates 39°41.56 09°39.67) and now, a little corner of paradise named Cala Sinzias with no chart information in OpenCPN, MaxSea, or Navionics at 39°11.297 09°34.133.

Photos of sea slugs (nudibrachs) from Cala Frailis.  Almost didn't see these little guys.  They are about 20 cm long (8 inches or so) and move around faster than I imaged.

Photo bombed by colorful fish, who, when you WANT to take his picture, is very evasive...

We left Cala Frailis just south of Santa Maria de Navarrese a few days ago headed for Cala Santa Foxi Manna, but after lunch en route, Patrick announced that he had broken off a few bits of a tooth.  He wasn't in any pain but it was clear that we needed to have it looked at before it really cracked .  With good winds, we changed course slightly and headed for Porto Corallo, arriving at 8 p.m.  The next morning, we discovered that the port had a small medical clinic on site, where we were informed that we needed to see a dentist.  (Fortunately that advice was free...).  After calling 4 different dentists in the villages around the port, we managed to find one that was not closed for vacation and could see us in the afternoon.  All was taken care of rapidly if not painlessly within 24 hours of discovering the problem.  We were quite pleased with ourselves.

And now we are enjoying a beautiful day in a beautiful cala.  A day at anchor goes something like this:

Up at the crack of 8:30.  Adjust solar panels.
Patrick skinny-dips before breakfast; Maria watches, amused but still groggy, with a cup of tea from the cockpit.
Internet time: emails, news, weather check. Discussion and decision on day's plans.
Put up sunbrella panels anywhere there is sun coming into the cockpit.  I feel like I spend most of my day moving these bits of cloth around...
Hand-wash some laundry, repair worn seal around refrigerator.
Move boat to a better spot (closer in to shore now that we know the rocks are far away).
Snorkeling: 1 hour or so.
Prepare and enjoy a long languid lunch. Watermelon, lamb chops with steamed potatoes and carrots, aged goat cheese on toast with honey and herbs de provence, red wine.  (There is a great butcher shop in Santa Maria.  I mentioned earlier that one of the first phrases a cruiser learns in a foreign language is "where is the hardware store."  If you are a foodie like Patrick, the second phrase you learn is "can we have this vacuum packed?"  After pantomiming vacuum-packed for the butcher and after the laughter died away, we learned the magic phrase:  "sotto vuotto".)
Calls and skypes to kids and parents.
Nap time !
Second snorkel session.
Internet (download pod casts, e-books, check weather again, discussion of plans for coming days based on weather).
Reading, lounging, light housework and cleaning.
Aperatif time !  Sundowners (well before sundown)
Prepare and enjoy dinner (usually inside watching the Italian evening news).  Fresh ricotta and spinach raviolis with tomato sauce and bresaola (salt-cured thin-sliced beef).
Mosquito patrol: put up mosquito screens and light mosquito incense coils.
Movies, reading, cockpit contemplation time.  Okay, okay...yes, one more weather check...
Mooring lights on, inside lights out.