When you pull into the
marina in La Coruna, it becomes immediately clear that you’ve arrived at a
cruising crossroads. No longer solely
accompanied by boats from Spain, France or the UK, you tie up amongst a
flotilla of boats from Sweden, Norway, Holland, Switzerland (yes, Switzerland),
Germany, Belgium, and even Australia and the USA, most making their way south
into the Med or to the Canaries in preparation for a fall Atlantic crossing.
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| Marina Real Club Nautico, La Coruna |
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| The "Glass City" architecture around the port. |
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| Spainish Air Force team streaming the red and gold of Spain over the port control tower of Marina Coruna. |
Many, like us, arrive
here by hopping along the coast, working west and south around the rias. Because the marinas are spread thin in this
region and the weather is capricious, there is a sort of gregarious migration
underway from port to port whenever the wind is right. Over the last few weeks, we’ve made friends
with several of our fellow drifters and these friendships have added a new and
important dimension to our cruising.
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| A new friend sailing around Cape Ortegal. |
Talking to experienced
long-distance, live-aboard cruisers is worth any number of how-to books. Sharing stories (the good and, more often,
the bad) has allowed us to place our own experiences in a context we didn’t
have before. All these crazy things that
have been happening to us (instrument failures, delayed departures, re-routing,
unpredicted storms, fishing nets around the propeller, etc.) are just part of
the cruising life; dramatic to us, banal to the seasoned cruiser. In talking to others, we’ve been able to gain
confidence about the things we did right and have some new ideas about things
we might try the next time. (Definitely
getting a Jordan series drogue).
We’ve been inspired by
many of these new friends, some of whom have been live-aboard cruising for many
years, others who have taken up long-distance cruising with much less
experience than we have, some with boats less adapted to long-distance cruising
than Spray. One couple who has crossed
the Atlantic and sailed all over Europe and the Mediterranean refers to
themselves as cowardly “chicken” cruisers!
Almost everyone we have met has been very humble about their
accomplishments and they just seem thrilled to be out here, taking it one day
at a time, the good with the not-so-good.
As for us, we’ve come
to a new crossroad ourselves. A few
weeks ago, after our surprise storm, we decided to stop long-distance sailing
altogether. We were convinced that we
didn’t have what it takes, and our motivation was sinking fast. Now Patrick says he couldn’t imagine a finer
lifestyle than this (at least 6 months of the year anyway). Of course I agree. We truly fall into the “chicken cruisers”
category with persistent doubt and stress, bumbling our way through each new
experience. But knowing that everyone
else has gone through the same thing – and that they still get nervous from
time to time - has been a big comfort.
Our biggest regret now
is that we will have to turn around to start the trek home in a few days while
our merry band of boaters continues to further horizons. We’ll just have to make new East-bound
friends.
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| Castel San Anton between the two major marinas of Coruna. |
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| The Tower of Hercules, the world's oldest functioning lighthouse (UNESCO World Heritage Site) |
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| A view from the top. |
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| Lovely local beaches. |
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| The fiesta of Vigen del Carmen. |
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| Oh, and La Coruna is a great place to have a twisted ankle x-rayed... (all's swell.) |
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